Another visit comes to an end. When I lament to friends about how much I will miss Orvieto, invariably one of them will say to me, “Oh, don’t worry, it will be exactly the same when you return — in Orvieto nothing ever really changes.” In my absence, I cling tight to the comfort of this statement and hope that what they say is true: In Orvieto the passage of time is suspended.
As if deposited by a time machine from the past, Medieval Orvieto is a contradiction of ancient and modern, a paradox of “now and then” and a throwback to simpler eras. Centered near the birthplace of the Cittaslow movement, (coincidentally whose logo is a snail), life inside these tufa walls moves at an easy pace, causing one’s blood pressure to plummet and heart rate to slow.
Orvietani march to a dreamy drummer and are not particularly in any urgency to get where they are going. In this village, lunchtime lasts 3 hours and includes a nap — where buying a stamp can take almost as long as the letter’s journey to its destination. One’s social life is not planned too far in advance, but typically made up of chance encounters and spontaneous invitations.
Its unique cocktail of sophistication and culture is unusual for a town of its size and population,
however before you decide if Orvieto is the right place for you, ask yourself this one important question: “Do I crave the excitement of a metropolitan life?” If the answer is yes, buy yourself a one-way train ticket to Rome, because “hustle and bustle” definitely doesn’t live around here.
Hi Toni! You just described why I like Orvieto so much. I didn’t even know that was the reason….thanks so much for the clarification!!
Denise. Glad I could help! LOL. Yup, each trip reveals another facet of life on La Rupe….baci. Toni
I have just arrived back in Australia from Bagni di Lucca and I miss it already, for all the reasons you mention. I love Orvieto too.
Hi Debra, So, how much time do you spend in Italy? I thought my jetlag was bad, but from Italy to Oz must be quite challenging. Let’s keep in touch – perhaps when we are both back in Italy we can meet – I have never been to Lucca but have always wanted to visit. I will be back in Orvieto in February and staying for two months that time, so keep me posted on your travels. Toni
I don’t get jet lag. I just hit the ground running in whatever country I am and I don’t think about it.
I will be back in Italy from the beginning of February until mid May. We should definitely meet. You will love Lucca. It has a similar feel to Orvieto. They are about the same size and while there are obvious differences they are alike in many ways.
You know Debra, this morning in the shower (where I do my best thinking) it occurred to me that jet-lag is perhaps more mental than physical. I am adopting your attitude and from now on….not focusing on it and just moving on. Thanks for the inspiration. Yes, I am sure I will love Lucca. I actually know someone who owns a house there: Donna Ames. Have you met her and her husband? She is from SF too. See you in Feb/Mar/or April. Ciao.t
Love, love, love this entry! Perfect description of Orvieto! :0)
Jen, Thanks so much. Question:I wrote this post awhile back, but I noticed that a bunch of people viewed it today? I really don’t understand how my blog gets around and why some posts, all of a sudden get read? Curious. Anyway, thanks for the “shout out”. See you on the corso soon. Hugs. toni
I am from Orvieto and I have to say: great post! Perfect understanding of the Orvietani life style and the Orvieto vibe!
Thank you David for writing – it is an honor, coming from an Orietano. Several years I was the subject of an article in “La Citta’” and the journalist said about me “She is American by birth, but Orvietana by adoption”. It was the highest compliment I could be paid. I love your city. See you on the Corso. Toni
From what I can read here, “La Città” was right (I used to read it a lot)! Ti aspettiamo Toni! I live in downtown. Ciao!
Love the post, I cant wait to get back to Orvieto for this reason.
Oh I might know why you are being viewed today by so many people.
Chef Lorenzo Polegri who was declared Ambassador of Orvietan Cuisine to the world by the Mayor of Orvieto, posted it on his facebook.
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100003219605665
AND
The TVB Foundation posted it on their facebook.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-TVB-Foundation/223881157676653
Hi, Thanks for that…I thought it was so strange but I am happy to hear from so many souls who love what I love. Hope to see you in Orvieto soon.
toni
Thanks for sharing Toni. I visited Orvieto as one of Chef Polegri’s students and fell in love. I miss Orvieto every day and am home sick for my adopted city and can’t wait to bring my family for a visit. Even rainy days in Orvieto are beautiful and seems to have an ethereal quality. I hope what they say is true that nothing changes in Orvieto.
Leslie, Thank you so much for writing and yes, Orvieto gets under your skin. It is like no other place on earth. A very special place. I hope you are able to get back soon. I am returning in just 7 days and I feel like the time has now slowed down here in San Francisco, but I wish it would fly. Perhaps someday we will be there at the same time. Keep me informed when you will be back. Toni
Hi, thanks for all the great info on Orvieto. I am writing from Boston, Massachusetts. My boyfriend and I are seriously considering signing up for a 10-day cooking vacation with Chef Lorenzo Polegri in April (organized through a Boston based cooking school). We would love to hear from anyone who has taken his classes. Thumbs up or thumbs down??
Hi Christine, Thanks for writing and I am glad you are interested in coming to Orvieto for the cooking school. I have written a friend, Bonnie, who lives here and whose husband works with Chef Polegri. I know the school has a great reputation, but I think Bonnie and Vitopaolo may be able to give you more specific info. If you can hang on for a day until I receive a reply from her, I can arrange to put the two of you in touch. I will get back to you soon. And, again, thanks for visiting my blog. toni
[...] across an ocean where a man sitting at his computer in Italy happens to run across my article, Orvieto, Italy: A Land Where Time Stands Still. Something moves him to send me a short note – he says he likes what I wrote about his [...]
Okay I link your post. Thanks for linking mine. T
Nice story, I’ll be heading to Orvieto in May. I’m definitely looking forward to my trip more now.
Thanks Alan, I am here until the 10th and back in October. Let me know if you are hear before I leave.
Toni