Pizza in Casa

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Pizza in Casa

January 30, 2013 by orvietoorbust

Just a few kilometers outside the center of Orvieto there’s an area known as Localita’ Ponte del Sole. Drive slowly on the winding road and be careful not to blink or you might miss it: A small hand painted sign with the words “Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella” nailed to a tree. The arrow points you down a white road that leads to a clearing…you’ve arrived at Zia Graziella’s place.

At first it might seem a bit unorthodox to find a pizzeria operating out of a private farmhouse in the middle of nowhere. However, when you consider that Italy is a country where food is one of its greatest sources of pride and cuisine part of its national identity, a speakeasy-style establishment thriving on a word-of-mouth reputation makes perfect sense.

Chef Zia Graziella has been creating pasta dough for over thirty-five years – first as the proprietor of a fresh, homemade pasta shop in the historical center and now as a highly regarded, wood-fired pizza cook. What makes her famous dough so extraordinary is that each batch is produced from an eighty-year old “mother” starter that she rolls out to a paper-thin consistency. Her recipe uses no oil and toppings are made with only the freshest ingredients picked from her garden or gathered from local area farms.

The price for a pizza dinner is fixed but the menu is fluid and dictated by the growing season. The meal includes antipasti, three or four different kinds of pizzas, dessert, wine, and coffee. Tonight, for example, we dined on Pizza Margherita (fresh tomato and mozzarella), Pizza with Fennel, Potato and Spicy Salami, and finally, Eggplant, Mozzarella and Tomato pizza.

The pizza flows like the nearby Tiber and can be stopped by leaving at least one slice on the platter – a signal to the kitchen that you’ve finished with the main course and are ready for dessert: a Pizza Nutella. I think it was somewhere between the coffee service and the pouring of Limoncello that I slipped into a Graziella-induced coma.

Honestly, I’d love to tell you that this amazing, one-of-a-kind restaurant is the best-kept secret in Umbria, but I’d be lying. Everyone knows the charming and talented Graziella: Martin Scorsese claims her gnocchi is the best he’s ever eaten and Richard Gere has her on speed dial. Not a VIP? Don’t worry – when you eat at Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella, you’re more than just a celebrity, you’re family.

***Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella,* Localita’ Ponte Del Sole, 38, Orvieto, Italy 05018, *+39 389 792 5102***

by Toni DeBella

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Posted in Orvieto, Orvieto Italy, Travel to Italy | Tagged Martin Scorses, orvieto italy, Pizza in Orvieto, Pizza in Umbria, Richard Gere, Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella | 23 Comments

23 Responses

on January 30, 2013 at 10:41 pm | Reply italyinnyc

I’m so going there when I get back! Thanks for the tip!
on January 30, 2013 at 11:23 pm | Reply umbriascribe

Toni, this is a great story! We’ve heard about Graziella for years and have never found her. Thank you so much for this! Next time we’re in Orvieto (which, sadly, is not very often anymore and it’s one of my favorite towns!), we’ll find the place! If I do get over there, I’ll let you know. We’re not that far away…just north of Umbertide (north of Perugia). Well done! Nina.
- on January 31, 2013 at 3:49 am | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  Nina, I don’t think I would have found her on my own…a good friend who has known Graziella for many years showed me the way. I do hope that with the popularity of the GPS many more lucky diners will be able to find their way there too! Keep me posted on your movements and thanks so much for writing. Toni
on January 31, 2013 at 12:02 am | Reply Ingrid

You must take me sounds fantastic !!
- on January 31, 2013 at 3:37 am | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  Ingrid,
  It’s a plan (if we can get ahold of a car, that is).
on January 31, 2013 at 8:18 am | Reply Linda Chapman

I love it! Makes my tastebuds drool just looking at the thin crust pizza; and fresh veggies too. My favorite. Wish I were there already. Thanks for this marvelously, tempting post.
- on January 31, 2013 at 10:01 am | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  LInda, I am not a huge fan of pizza but this place rocks!!! Hugs. t
on January 31, 2013 at 2:51 pm | Reply Carol Solfanelli

There’s nothing like pizza made in Italy. They can’t duplicate it in the US. They try but they just don’t have the ingredients. Some places like Ristobar come close but still not the same.
- on January 31, 2013 at 3:02 pm | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  Hi Carol. How was your coffee today? I had mine but it was decaffeinated cuz I am still jet-lagged. You are right about ingredients here – it’s something to do with the water, the soil and the sunshine that can’t be duplicated there. I have never been able to find a tomato in the US (even if I pay a fortune for it) that taste the way they do in Italy. Another reason to come and visit: dinner at Zia Graziella’s? hugs. t
on February 1, 2013 at 11:06 pm | Reply janinevasta

OK Toni, it’s a date. This is more than enough temptation for me to head on back…Won’t be long now! xx
- on February 5, 2013 at 12:57 pm | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  When, when, when????? xxo. t
on February 3, 2013 at 9:36 am | Reply budclark@optonline.net

The Cancer is winning. I go to rosary hill. A hospice, Tuesday. Light a candle in the duomo for me and keep the blogs coming.bud

Sent from my iPad
- on February 4, 2013 at 1:30 am | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  I love you, Bud. t
  - on February 8, 2013 at 1:09 pm Teri Byrnes
    
    Bud – I love you too! Sending hugs. Teri Plumb Byrnes
on February 5, 2013 at 6:09 pm | Reply Karen

This sounds amazing! I assume it’s related to L’Antica Rupe in Orvieto?
- on February 5, 2013 at 11:50 pm | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  Hi Karen,
  Not sure what you mean when you say “related to L’Antica Rupe”? Zia Graziella has her pizzeria just outside Orvieto in the countryside. I wouldn’t have known about it myself if a friend hadn’t brought me there. Worth the short drive – Graziella is wonderful. t
on February 17, 2013 at 4:56 pm | Reply youngontheroad

Goshh I could go to Italy just for the food. Sounds like a lovely meal!
- on February 17, 2013 at 10:26 pm | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  Come for the food, stay for the …..toni
  - on February 18, 2013 at 8:00 am youngontheroad
    
    lol!
on March 29, 2013 at 4:43 pm | Reply emolly

Hi Toni, I have been reading your blog for awhile now. I keep coming back to Orvieto after spending 2 weeks there a couple of years ago. I am returning next week and would love to try to find Zia Graziella. Thanks for the great info and blog! Amy
- on March 30, 2013 at 12:05 am | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  Amy! Nice to hear from you and I am happy you like my blog. Graziella’s place is not that difficult to find really…but you need a car. . From Orvieto, take the road that goes to Lake Bolsena. Past Tamburino/Ponte del Sole area, keep your eyes peeled for the sign nailed to a tree on your right (see photo on my blog) indicating a small white road and turn right down it and drive a bit until you reach the clearing and her restaurant. Have fun! toni
on May 11, 2013 at 11:21 pm | Reply mandtlang

Hi Toni,
we tried to find yesterday (mostly from memory of what you had written after our GPS didn’t reognize the address) … we’ll find it next time for sure! Have you met Giovanni and Vera, the cute couple who run the little alimentari on the left side of the street a couple of hundred yards down the street on the left when walking from the Duomo towards the clock? We met them on our first trip to Orvieto about a dozen years ago and we stop in on them every time we’re there … they remember our daughters and have met most of our family over the years … anyhow, if you haven’t met them and become good friends, we recommend you stop on in … they are so kind …
Marty and Terri (Martino e Teresa)
Castello delle Forme PG and Madison Wisconsin
- on May 14, 2013 at 11:08 pm | Reply orvietoorbust
  
  Hi There. Oh, bummer. Sorry you couldn’t find Graziella’s. It’s not obvious. The sign is small and nailed to a tree on the right just has you pass Ponte del Sole going up the hill to Porano/Bolsena. It you did it at night, double-hard. I don’t know Giovanni and Vera, but I don’t shop on Via Del Duomo a lot. I will remember them and try to stop in one day. I think I know which one you mean. hugs. Toni