"Orvieto Sunset"
I have an Italian passport, a codice fiscale and my city library card. I received the “friend-of-a-friend” discount on my Roman root canal and get the locals’ price for my morning caffe latte. I’ve accumulated two tablecloths, four plug adapters, six wooden hangers, a set of espresso cups, a milk foamer, a bathmat and a thicker skin.
Going back and forth, arriving and departing, being here and then there makes my head spin! My months in Italy have passed at lightening speed; the countdown has begun and the melancholy is setting in. There is just over one week until I must return to my American “base camp”. I get confused about which place I can call home: San Francisco or Orvieto?
I’m often asked if I am living la dolce vita? Stereotypes and dopey clichés are the stuff of Hollywood films, tour companies and real estate agencies – images perpetuated to sell the fantasy. No, I don’t live either Under the Tuscan Sun or in The Dark Heart of Italy. Honestly, this kooky existence, even with its sometimes harsh reality, beats the Eat, Pray, Love version of romanticized Italy, hands down.
The other day I overheard one women whisper to another as they passed me on the street, “There’s that americana”. It sent me flashing back to my preteen, middle school days for a moment and then, suddenly, a satisfied smile came over my face because being the topic of town gossip, I decided, is much preferable to being invisible.
I know that I am still an outsider looking in, an invested observer circling around the perimeter of Italian life. I quite like the view from over here…for now. Sometimes you have to let things unfold at their own pace and in their own time. I’d rather stay in Italy, but I must go back. I cling to the hope that one day il destino will throw me the proverbial bone and I won’t have to leave. Until that time comes, I will make like a bad penny and just keep turning up!
“Orvieto Sunset” and the other images of Italy were contributed by Patrick Delaney, a fellow expat from Dublin, Ireland in the process of building a house in nearby Montecchio. Umbria. Patrick, an architect, has been painting in oils for ten years. He believes good paintings are about light and shade and atmosphere. His favorite artist is Caravaggio – he only wishes he could paint like him. (But mind you, he gets into as much trouble!) For more information about Patrick’s work, you can contact him at delaneypm@eircom.net.
Orvieto or Bust: 
Eat, Pray Love was a complete pile of rubbish and books and films like that give a very one sided idea if what life is like in Italy. I love if here too, and I hate to leave when it is time to go, but I love my life in Australia and I love being able to do things easily and efficiently. Lining up for hours to perform the most simple official tasks would drive me batty full time. It is easy for us, who can go home and don’t have to live and work here. I wouldn’t want to be a teenager here trying to find a job and make a living….I think life is very difficult for some Italians. They don’t all sit under olive trees enjoying a long lunch every day.
Debra, Life in San Francisco is good, but unfortunately I think it’s just a bit better for me in Italy. Unfortunately I am one of the poor souls that must work when I am here, so I tried to smile and laugh when in line at the post office…what can you do? A sense of humor goes a long way! T
Beautiful paintings and a wonderful summation, being in-between is never an easy place to be. Working on yachts I’m neither a tourist or a local – like you I am looking forward to the day when I can truly call Italy home!
Yes, let’s keep pulling each other along and then when we are both here full time we can spend some time together “non-virtually”. Hugs. t
Toni, Love reading your blog as always! This afternoon, I go to the film festival to see “Summer Games,” filmed in Tuscany. That’s how I will get my Italian fix for now. Give me a call when you return, and we can meet at CIBO again if you like on my morning bike ride.:)
Hi Carol, Thanks! Yes, let’s get together when I’m back. Hugs. toni
Dear Toni, I have tears stinging my eyes writing this….I really, really know what that last week is like. There aren’t even words but I hope somehow it helps you to know there’s one other soul out there who knows what you’re feeling. We can’t have it all. Like you I would put up with a lot to be there full time. We’re all different. Priorities get tested but after a few years of this infernal coming and going you know what your are, don’t you. I have never seen the film but nothing compares to real life anyway. So keep living yours with all the grace you can muster. Home is where the heart is and you belong where your heart belongs. They will so miss you those signore…;-) With lots of love,
Janine xxxx
PS. I love your friend’s paintings. Really. Please tell him so. Jxx
Janine, It never ceases to amaze me how alike we are in thinking and feeling…you said it better than I could. Yes, we both know what we are…tough, resilient and focused. We have a plan and we are sticking to it! And those signore…I will definitely miss them more than they will miss me. Hugs and kisses. t
Toni, What causes you to go back and fourth? I noticed that you have said you have a passport, library card and Codice Fiscale, but no resident visa. Can’t you apply while you are in Italy? I want to do the same thing your doing (move to Italy) and I’m looking for advice.
Hi George, One can apply for a resident visa if one has a “residence”, i.e., owns a property, has a rental contract, electricity bill in ones name, etc. I am a citizen, so I don’t need a visa. I can stay if I had enough work to sustain me.
If you aren’t a citizen of the EU, but have a certain amount of money in the bank to show the government you will not need to use their social services while living here, or have a work visa (an employment contract) with a company in Italy, you can get become a resident (renewable once a year), otherwise you have a tourist visa and can’t stay over 3 months at a time.
Unfortunately I need to earn a living…small complication. I work a little remotely while I am in Italy and work a lot when in the US….save and then head back again. Trying to do 6 month each place. Hope this helps. Thanks for stopping by and writing. Keep in touch. toni
Toni, I feel for you and I too, have a lumpy throat every time I leave Italy, but I to and fro, and it keeps a healthy respect alive for both the good and the bad things in both places (UK and Italy). Nowhere is perfect….(Although Italy is by far and away my location of choice!) But I love my family and have strong ties in the UK, I have learned to live for the positives in each place, keeping the deep longings at bay!….. coping strategy for now but at some point things will change! enjoy the day – that’s all we can do,
L x
Lulu, Yes, I try to appreciate all the time I have left…of course, as always, I will be back. Six months can fly buy if I keep myself busy and productive. Thanks for writing and understanding. Hugs. Toni