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All packed and nowhere to go.

Hurricane Sandy, like the Icelandic Volcano several years before it, had rearranged my date of departure leaving me cooling my jets in California for another week.  You know how it is when you’re ready to go somewhere – a delay can be a huge letdown.  My friend calls it “premature elation”.  On the bright side, it was great to hang out with my Mom and Andrew a little bit longer, but after seven days on hold I decided to reroute my trip and fly to Frankfurt instead.

Am I becoming one of those people who always has a story?

On Tuesday I arrived in Frankfurt without incident, carrying everything I own crammed into two seventy-pound suitcases. I literally lumbered over to the DB Bahn desk for a train ticket to Italy. I explained to the young reservationist that I must be on the next train to Orvieto, Italy.  She said the train to Munich was leaving in exactly twelve minutes, so I slapped down my credit card and took off like a bat out of hell – I hopped onto the train with just minutes to spare!  I enjoyed the German countryside, but my train arrived in Munich late, so I had to make a run for it (with two heavy bags, “run” would be an overstatement).  The conductor announced they would be pulling away from the station in 30 seconds so I flung my bags onto the last carriage – I think I have a hernia now.  But really, the important thing is I was on my way to Orvieto at last!

I took a seat by the window and looked out at the passing cities of Nuremberg, Innsbruck, Trento…oh sh*t! I took the wrong train!  Apparently Rovereto is not the German word for “Orvieto”, but actually a town near Verona. Oh well, at least I was traveling in the right direction.

In Verona, my friendly Austrian conductor, Arnold, offered to let me tag along with the train employees to their hotel and even convinced the front desk to give me a good rate.  A pizza, a shower and a good night’s sleep was just what the doctor ordered.

In the morning I was on the train to Orvieto via Bologna.  I met a lovely veterinarian from Rome, Marco, who helped me get my bags (or as he referred to them, my armadi (wardrobes)) off of the train at Bologna Centrale and three hours later I arrived at my new home.  My friend heard my bags rolling down the marble stairs all the way from the station lobby.  She remarked how lucky I was to have avoided the excess baggage charges by the airline.  Yeah, I am lucky.

by Toni DeBella

Fortune Cookie Future

After finishing a Chinese meal, I can hardly wait to crack open my fortune cookie to see what the future holds! Those forecasts that portend good things find themselves taped to the inside cover of my journal for safekeeping and easy reference:

“A bold and dashing adventure is in your future within a year.”

Yeah, it is.

Confucius Says…

My new friend, Shanghai-born travel writer Vivian Mao, explains that the fortune cookie doesn’t actually exist in China – it’s an American invention. The exact origin of this little roll of sugar, flour, vanilla, sesame seed oil with a tiny paper prophecy tucked inside seems to be in dispute. The Japanese claim the recipe came from their traditional cracker while the Chinese insist that they popularized it. As the fortune cookie battle rages on, I think that we can all agree on one thing: Good news and sage advice all wrapped-up in a sugar cookie is pretty awesome!

“You health is important. Eat your vegetables!”

…Words of wisdom.

by Toni DeBella

Perfectly warm, sunny weather; crystal-clear blue skies with not a cloud in sight; fighter pilots creating sonic booms in shiny blue and gold jets above the Golden Gate Bridge…It’s Fleet Week, baby!

I think the Blue Angels are the rock stars of the skies.  That navy pilot who flew the United Airlines jumbo jet at a dangerously low altitude over the San Francisco Bay has nerves of steel.  

If the Blue Angels soaring into the wild blue yonder at the speed of sound doesn’t make you jump up and down and squeal like a little girl, then there’s something seriously wrong with you!  Good day. Sunshine. Jets.

 

by Toni DeBella

Mortadella Bella!

As far back as I can remember I loved baloney sandwiches!  My childhood obsession was so famous that family, friends, and neighbors referred to me as “Toni Baloney”.  Undaunted by the nickname, I was actually quite proud to be so closely associated with my favorite pink, slippery and quintessentially American cold cut.  After all, “Oscar Mayer has a way with B-O-L-O-G-N-A.”

But as it happens, I grew up and had my first taste of baloney’s sophisticated Italian cousin, Mortadella, and I was a goner!  My boloney-eating days were over – this smooth, sweet and spicy, pistachio-filled deli roll is the “caviar” of lunchmeat.

I haven’t been to Bologna, Italy yet, but I am planning my pilgrimage once I’m settled in Orvieto.  The city of Bologna is famous for this finely ground, heat-cured pork salumi, produced there since the 14th century.  Suspected to have originally been a Roman sausage, Mortadella di Bologna has achieved the epitome of food recognition – it has a Protected Geological Indication status designated by the European Union to preserve the regional names of products.  In strict accordance with these delicious guidelines, a classic Mortadella di Bologna must be prepared with 15% evenly distributed squares of fat, no preservatives, fillers, or additives.  Naturale!

When in Italy I will be living-off Mortadella’s mouth-watering yumminessI’ll eat it for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and as a bedtime snack.  I’ll eat it between two pieces of bread, thinly sliced “as is” with a glass of wine, cubed, fried, moussed and spread, and stuffed into tortellini.  Any way you slice it…Mortadella e’ bella!  

P.S.  I’m thinking of changing my nickname.  How does “Toni DeMortadellaBella” grab you?

by Toni DeBella

 

On Italian Time

60 days, 8 weeks, 1440 hours, 86,400 minutes and 5,184,000 seconds…

Everyday I obsessively enter my impending departure date into a duration calculator, but strangely the “days remaining until I arrive in Italy” number never seems to decrease. Time is not just dragging, it has come to a screeching halt and I’ve begun to wonder if my new life in Orvieto will ever begin? I fear I could be trapped in some kind of weird vortex or bizarre Italian space-time continuum!

Harry’s touching sentiment in the film, When Harry Met Sally echoes my own:

“…when you realize you want to spend the rest of your life with someone (or, in my case, somewhere), you want the rest of your life to start as soon as possible.”

Unfortunately like a pot, a watched country never boils.

by Toni DeBella

 

There’s a mind-set you adopt when you’re about to move far, far away.  You become a short-timer drawing an arbitrary line in the sand – a sort of invisible cut-off date after which you won’t be forming any new relationships.  Now when I meet someone I’m tempted to say, “Hi, my name is Toni and you can’t get attached to me.”  I’ve put into place a “friend moratorium” because I just can’t like any more people – it hurts too much to leave them.

A perfect example is Reggie. I met her just under the wire at a Starbucks on Union Street about a month ago.  She is hysterically funny, super smart and very cool. Now I’m going to miss her, damn it! 

When it rains, it pours…

Wouldn’t you know it?  The other day on the ferry a handsome man smiled at me PAST THE DEADLINE!  

I was thinking…perhaps some rules are meant to be broken?

by Toni DeBella

Leaving San Francisco isn’t going to be easy.  I love this city and will miss everything about it.  I remember the first day I moved here.  I stepped out onto the stoop of my apartment building, looked around and decided there was nowhere in the world I would rather be…then I found Orvieto. Italy.  In the next three months I am going to enjoy every single minute of my life here, appreciate all the things San Francisco and Marin County have to offer, and say good-bye with no regrets…

….Goodbye deYoung Museum.

August 4, 2012: Jean Paul Gaultier at the deYoung Museum, Golden Gate Park

I exited the Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibition at the DeYoung Museum today flabbergasted.   I am shattered by Gaultier’s genius.  I’ve never seen clothes so beautiful, expressions so unfiltered, gowns so outrageously sublime, outfits so over-the-top delightful.   Each one was lovely and funny and smart and more incredible than the next.  His masterpieces are astonishing.  I wonder if Jean Paul Gaultier knows how brilliant he is?  I think so.

Tartan Man

 

Madonna and his iconic bustier

by Toni DeBella

It’s already bad enough that I have to be so far away from Italy right now, but on top of that, I’m completely tortured by the separation from the food in her restaurants!

San Francisco is a big, big foodie city known for its fine, cutting-edge dining, exquisite winemaking, and a strong, Italian-American heritage.  Whenever possible, I eat in Italian restaurants but honestly, lately there seems to be something missing.  The Olive Garden just isn’t cutting it for me any more.

Dining in Italy is the sum of its parts; a package deal where food and wine don’t tell the whole story – relationship, personal connection and graciousness are also part of the equation.  When I am in San Francisco it’s not so surprising then, that the places I feel the most comfortable and want to frequent are those owned, operated and staffed by native Italians. Ristorante Ideale in North Beach is one of my favorites. (Read 7 Tastes of Italy).  Owner and Chef Maurizio Bruschi creates a scene that makes the walk through his door, a walk into Rome. 

…and then there was dinner last evening at Ristobar in the Marina District.  The food was amazing in taste and presentation, but the icing on the cake was a personal visit to the table from the new Chef de Cuisine, Michele Belotti from Bergamo – young, talented and an artist with food.  I was transported again…this time just a little farther to the north.

Ristorante Ideale: http://www.idealerestaurant.com/; 1315 Grant Ave, SF 94133 (415)391-4129

Ristobar: http://www.ristobarsf.com/; 300 Chestnut Street, SF 94123; (415) 923-6464 

by Toni DeBella 

WANTED IN ROME

LOOKING FOR WORK IN ITALY:

Background and Education:

University Bachelor of Science Degree in Human Performance (Physical Education – don’t get any funny ideas), Graduate Degree from School of Hard Knocks.

 

Prior Work Experience:

Freelance Legal/Executive Administrative Assistant (yeah, Secretary), Single Mom (yes, it’s a “real” job), Mural/Faux Finishing business owner since 1991, Government Affairs Regulatory Assistant (really), Commercial/Television Actress (yes, really).

 

Recent Work Experience:

Blogger, Freelance Travel Writer, Copywriter, Editor (knows the difference between favorite and favourite), TEFL Certified English Teacher (who isn’t?), Personal Assistant, Olive Oil Sales Rep, Relocation Coordinator, Vacation Concierge, Video Travel Host, and International Pet Escort.

 

Hobbies and Interests:

Italy.  Available Immediately.

by Toni DeBella

It was the summer of 1988. In commemoration of the birth of my son, I planted a small fuchsia bougainvillea in a planter just under our front window. The vine was scrawny and spindly, and the few flowers on it had fallen off, leaving only a sad green twig in the ground. I worried that this bougainvillea wouldn’t make it through the winter. Shortly thereafter we relocated across town, leaving the bougainvillea to fend for itself.

Last week on my way to meet a friend for lunch, I unexpectedly found myself in our old neighborhood and came upon our flat on Green Street. The exterior of the apartment hadn’t changed much over the years except for one thing…there was a luscious, gigantic bougainvillea climbing the side of the building.  Amazingly, almost a quarter of a century later, this plant not only survived; it flourished.

Today marks the anniversary of the day, twenty-four years ago, when my son came into the world and when that little twig of a bougainvillea took root and began to grow. 1988 was a very good year for little boys and bougainvilleas.

by Toni DeBella