Archive for the ‘Americans Abroad’ Category
A Book Review: “The Etruscan Chef”
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Food in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, Umbria, tagged Food in Italy, Italian food, Lorenzo Polegri, Orvieto, The Etruscan Chef, Umbria, Umbrian Cuisine on November 17, 2012| 4 Comments »
On Italian Time
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Living abroad, Living in Europe, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, tagged duration calculator, Italian time, orvieto italy, space time continuum, travel, When Harry Met Sally on September 2, 2012| 13 Comments »
60 days, 8 weeks, 1440 hours, 86,400 minutes and 5,184,000 seconds…
Everyday I obsessively enter my impending departure date into a duration calculator, but strangely the “days remaining until I arrive in Italy” number never seems to decrease. Time is not just dragging, it has come to a screeching halt and I’ve begun to wonder if my new life in Orvieto will ever begin? I fear I could be trapped in some kind of weird vortex or bizarre Italian space-time continuum!
Harry’s touching sentiment in the film, When Harry Met Sally echoes my own:
“…when you realize you want to spend the rest of your life with someone (or, in my case, somewhere), you want the rest of your life to start as soon as possible.”
Unfortunately like a pot, a watched country never boils.
by Toni DeBella
A Lame Duck American
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Living abroad, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, tagged travel on August 14, 2012| 10 Comments »
There’s a mind-set you adopt when you’re about to move far, far away. You become a short-timer drawing an arbitrary line in the sand – a sort of invisible cut-off date after which you won’t be forming any new relationships. Now when I meet someone I’m tempted to say, “Hi, my name is Toni and you can’t get attached to me.” I’ve put into place a “friend moratorium” because I just can’t like any more people – it hurts too much to leave them.
A perfect example is Reggie. I met her just under the wire at a Starbucks on Union Street about a month ago. She is hysterically funny, super smart and very cool. Now I’m going to miss her, damn it!
When it rains, it pours…
Wouldn’t you know it? The other day on the ferry a handsome man smiled at me PAST THE DEADLINE!
I was thinking…perhaps some rules are meant to be broken?
by Toni DeBella
Italy Envy
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Orvieto, Piazza Navona, Rome, Travel, Umbria, tagged Envy, Italy, jealousy, Orvieto, Piazza Navona, Rome, travel, Travel to Italy on June 6, 2012| 12 Comments »
“Nothing is as obnoxious as other people’s luck.”― F. Scott Fitzgerald
Envy is a malicious emotion in which a miserable and narcissistic person craves the misfortune of others and begrudges their success. From the Latin word Invidia, envy is considered so nefarious it’s ranked number six among the Seven Deadly Sins. Some days I admit it – I’m a sinner…I envy the entire population of Italy.
“Envy is for people who don’t have the self-esteem to be jealous.”― Benson Bruno
Jealousy, similar to envy, is often defined as “resentment against a rival, suspicion or fear of losing someone or something you love.” Hummm…
You know, I am not going to allow myself to linger any longer in these emotional black holes. When I find myself in this unhealthy state of mind, I’ll just remember that the merry-go-round of life spins and spins and there are more than enough brass rings to go around. I’ll wait and be patient for I am about to come around again for another grab at the prize. Negative moods are neither good for your soul nor your skin.
Envious or jealous is just no way to be.
by Toni DeBella
The Blackboard Jungle Italia
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, tagged Italian for Foreigners, learning Italian, Sweathogs, travel, Welcome Back Kotter on March 6, 2012| 15 Comments »
The information I was given at the education office of the centro sociale (community center) was that the Italian class commenced at 3:25 on Thursday afternoons. The photo is of the scene on Thursday at exactly 3:24 p.m. Oops, apparently the class actually begins at 4:30 p.m. I located the teacher and she recommended I come, instead, to her class on Tuesdays at 2:30 p.m. Okay, I’m game. I’ll be back on Tuesday afternoon…
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
If I hadn’t experienced it myself, I don’t think I would have believed it. My friend, who attended class with me, was witness to the casino (mess) that was my first public funded italiano per stranieri (Italian for Foreigners) course.
It was a blast from the past – reminiscent of the glory days of flying spitballs, pimple-faced awkwardness and hallway passes alla “Welcome Back Kotter”, the iconic television sitcom about a street-wise teacher saddled with a class of overzealous, unruly misfits.
This afternoon’s cast of characters: a pretty blond, if not somewhat scattered teacher; a macho hooligan who passed out our text books while making wisecracks with a unlit cigarette dangling from his mouth; a skinny, greasy-haired and sullen boy who interrupted class to take a call on his cellphone; a dull-witted, sloppy adolescent surfing his Facebook page during the lesson; a painfully shy North African women who refused to speak if asked a question – she just sat there until the teacher moved on; a young Eastern European couple who sat so close together they almost became one person and, my favorite, the know-it-all teacher’s pet who corrected your answers before the instructor got a word in edgewise.
The class was disorganized, the overhead projector didn’t function and the audio CD was scratchy and unintelligible. However, I did learn some things I didn’t know before – the words l’orario fisso (fixed schedule); lo stipendio (salary), and turni (shifts). Also, silenzio! (be quiet!); No, non si può fumare qui dentro! (No, you cannot smoke in here!) and Spero che tornerai la prossima settimana (I hope you will come back next week).
I believe “sweathog” translated into Italian is sweathog.
Il Mondo e’ Piccolo: San Francisco to Orvieto
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, tagged archipelago, DeBella, il mondo e' piccolo, It's a small world, travel on March 5, 2012| 10 Comments »
It never ceases to amaze me how tiny the world has become. From my little apartment in San Francisco, I have an idea. I sit down at my desk and pound out my thoughts onto my computer. Because of the nature of the internet today, my viewpoints and impressions are broadcast instantaneously across an ocean where a man sitting at his computer in Italy happens to run across my article, Orvieto, Italy: A Land Where Time Stands Still. Something moves him to send me a short note – he says he likes what I wrote about his hometown.
Just a few short months later, I find myself sitting across the dinner table from a lovely couple to whom I’d been introduced that evening. Halfway through the supper conversation we discover the link: “So, you’re that Toni DeBella”, the husband declares to our astonishment. You could have knocked me over with a feather!
In these crazy moments, the once unthinkable becomes
imaginable. Here we all sit together in a restaurant in Orvieto, experiencing firsthand the growing obsolescence of continents and landmasses with hard-drawn borders. Can’t you just picture it – the entire human race clustered in one big archipelago – chained loosely and floating alongside one another, just waiting to collide? And do you know the most amazing part? My story is becoming more and more common and every day. Il mondo e’ piccolo (it’s a small world), and it’s getting smaller all the time.
Read another “small world” story by Lisa Chiodo at Renovating Italy here.
Scuola dei Duri: School of Hard Knocks
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Living abroad, Travel, tagged Ernest Hemmingway, Expats in Italy, living in Italy, small town news on February 28, 2012| 11 Comments »
“You’re an expatriate. You’ve lost touch with the soil. You get precious. Fake European standards have ruined you. You drink yourself to death. You become obsessed by sex. You spend all your time talking, not working. You are an expatriate, see? You hang around cafés.”
– Ernest Hemmingway
Ahhh…the adventure and discovery of learning about my newly-adopted nation and how it functions – from the everyday (taking a number at the post office) and mundane (small town news and gossip travels like wildfire), to the intricacies of governmental bureaucracy (it took me an entire afternoon and ten forms to deposit money in a bank account). Mastery of a new system takes an adjustment period. How long my learning curve will be is entirely in my hands. My passport may say I am Italian now, but I know this is a legal technicality. I am a stranger learning to live the way people live here and it isn’t always straightforward.
A rosy outlook, tongue-biting and an almost Pollyannaish mind set is how I roll these days. Like muttering about the August sun shining bright and hot – complain if you will, but the sun will continue to beat down on you. My days are about sink or swim, and being educated one mistake at a time. You live, you learn.
Acqua Pura: Rome on Tap
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Rome, Travel, tagged aqueducts, Bootsnall, Roman engineering, Roman water, The Roman Nasone on November 27, 2011| 1 Comment »

La Barcaccia, Piazza di Spagna
Rome in late summer can have days so stiflingly and oppressively hot you can think of nothing else but the record high temperatures. Everywhere people are in a fever-induced trance, like melting zombies repeating the same phrases to whomever is within earshot: “Fa caldo!” “E’ caldo come un forno!”. With dead eyes we respond only with a weak, “Si, si”.
I find a small piece of shade near a piazza and sit down on the curb to rest for a minute. The undulating refraction of air rising from the burning pavement creates a mirage. When I stare at one spot long enough, I think I see a figure of the devil forming above a manhole. Hallucination is the first symptom of heat stroke. The soles of my shoes are melting, the mosquitoes that have been gnawing at my ankles have left large red welts on my skin and I’m so dehydrated that my mouth feels filled with cotton balls. Then, not too far in the distance I see it…a drinking fountain! If I weren’t so faint from the heat and humidity I would run toward it like a nomad to an oasis in the Sahara.
Archaeologists believe that the technology for moving water into and around a city originally came from the east, however Romans are unquestionably credited with perfecting the process (i.e., the invention of the aqueduct). This brilliant engineering feat goes unmatched in the ancient world and earned Rome the distinction of having the most available, purest, best-tasting water on the planet. You’ll find Nasone (big nose) fountains scattered throughout the Eternal City – there are about 280 inside its walls alone. On a scorching hot day like this one, all you need to do is simply bend over, stick out your tongue and take a long, cool drink from its glassy stream. L’Acqua di Roma: Liquid of the Gods!
Passion: Agony and Ecstacy
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Orvieto, tagged 30 Days of Indie Travel, Benjamin Franklin, Bootsnall, passion on November 18, 2011| 3 Comments »
Passion: Day 17 of the 30 Days of Indie Travel Project
During this entire month of November Bootsnall is inviting bloggers from around the world to participate in 30 Days of Indie Travel : a daily blogging effort to look back on our past travel experiences. Yes, I know I am posting out of order. Yesterday the topic was passion: what’s yours?
Benjamin Franklin once wrote, “If passion drives you, let reason hold the reins.” Ben and I agree on this point. My son Andrew often tells me that I have a propensity to perceive things from a romanticized point of view. Conversely, my friend Suzee insists I have a rational, logical approach to life. So which is it?
I am keenly aware that gone unchecked, my passion for a life in Italy could consume me and morph into a full-blown addiction. It’s not that I want to discount my emotions in place of reason, but I believe – like the thin line between love and hate – there is a fine balance that must be struck.
We dreamers don’t like to admit that passion can be a double-edged sword – both blessing and curse. In order to fulfill a dream, something has to give. “On life’s vast ocean diversely we sail. Reasons the card, but passion the gale.”- Alexander Pope
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Traveling by the Seat of My Pants – Repost
Posted in Americans Abroad, Culture, Expat in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Rome, Travel, Umbria, tagged Budget travel, Campino Airport, Frankfurt airport, Fumicino, Fumincino Airport, New York to Rome, Orvieto, travel, Traveling standby, Viterbo, Volcano in Iceland on November 18, 2011| 3 Comments »
During this entire month of November Bootsnall is inviting bloggers from around the world to participate in 30 Days of Indie Travel : a daily blogging effort to look back on our past travel experiences. Trying desperately to keep up with my fellow bloggers (failing miserably), I am reposting this piece from April 2011. My justification for the short-cut – I am being “Green” – Reduce, recycle, reuse!!!! Today’s Topic: BUDGET. Here is TRAVELING ON A BUDGET “ALLA TONI”…
One of my great fortunes in life is having two close friends who work as Flight Attendants for major international airlines. These two women both collectively and single-handedly enable me to feed my addiction to Italy (or as I sometimes like to refer to it, “my crack”). The companion fare or “buddy pass”: a way of traveling that is not for the faint of heart. It requires nerves of steel, the patience of Job, the imagination of Sherlock Holmes, and the ingenuity and resourcefulness of MacGyver. It also helps to have an innate ability to build alliances and form coalitions with the other “buddies” in line for the few choice “non-revenue” seats. It’s sort of like “Survivor”, but in an airport.
Companion fares are a fraction of the cost of a regular ticket, but as the old adage goes, “You Get What You Pay For.” Don’t misunderstand me, I am eternally grateful to my friends for sharing their privileges with me. However, if you are planning to travel this way you must go in with your eyes wide open and accept its cruel game of “standby roulette”.
I have sat many a time at the gate testing the theory that I can telepathically compel myself onto the airplane by chanting over and over again “please call my name, please call my name, please call my name” like some twisted mantra, in an effort to will the gate agent, (who’s forehead I have just burned a hole through) to say those seven magic words, “passenger DeBella, please come to the podium”.
Ah, the sweet glory of nabbing a seat in business class from New York to Rome! Warm nuts, champagne, fluffy socks, a blanket made of natural fiber and, the pièce de résistance, a seat that reclines almost flat. Once you have flown business class, it’s hard to return to coach. In the back (an airline industry term for “where the losers sit”) I feel like an immigrant crammed into steerage on the Titanic. Should things go awry, I am convinced any real lifesaving procedures will be afforded to the platinum American Express cardholders first. But I’m not thinking about that today – today I am one of them. The cabin crew addresses me as Ms. DeBella. “Ms. DeBella, what would you like as your entree?” “Ms. DeBella, would you like a warm towel?” “May I get you another pillow, Ms. DeBella?” They don’t call it business class for nothing.
But there’s a dark side to “standby, non-rev” (another airline term for “cheapskates who sponge-off their friends and family”). I’ve been stranded in Milan for 3 days (my traveling companion was a high-strung, hot-tempered, not-so-easy-going Italian – very stressful!), Rome – 3 days (I finally resorted to tears and someone took pity on me), New York – 5 days (Icelandic volcano eruption – seven million other passengers and me marooned, so I don’t really count that one). I have slept overnight on a bench in a food court at Frankfurt airport, aligned with 8 other rebuffed “buddies” (we filled an entire B&B in Fumicino, Italy) and naively accepted an offer from Domenico, a complete stranger I sat next to on a flight from Hahn to Campino, to drive me to Orvieto on his way to Viterbo. He could have been an ax-murderer, but as it turned out, he was a really lovely guy.
The bottom line is I will take the opportunity to travel anyway I can get it. I love airports – they are happy places for me. When I am in one I’m either going somewhere far away or returning from a wonderful and unique adventure. It’s certainly challenging to fly around the world without a structure or a guarantee. Honestly I sort of enjoy the game – it feels like a test of my character and determination. Over the years I have managed to overcome a lot of obstacles, so perhaps the hardships make arriving at my destination all the more satisfying. So, like the title of this blog implies, I will beg, borrow and steal to get where I am going. Buon Viaggio!














