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The Birthday Blues

There is still no cure for the common birthday.” – John Glenn

Birthdays always bring me down.  It’s not my advancing age that annoys me so much (although I’m not thrilled about the fact I can no longer realistically “double” my age).  As “that” time of year approaches I begin to experience a weird sensation of anxiety and doom collecting in my stomach.  Really, as far back as I can remember birthday wishes have embarrassed and flustered me.  I hate to appear ungracious, but I’m uncomfortable being acknowledged and congratulated for an event that I had absolutely nothing to do with.  I feel the same way when complimented about my green eyes – it’s strange to accept credit for something that took no effort on my part to achieve.

 “You can live to be a hundred if you give up all the things that make you want to live to be a hundred.” – Woody Allen

Birthdays are a time-stamp underscoring the warp speed at which life travels.  It’s not death I fear – I am afraid of wasting a single minute of the life that has been allotted to me. I figure that by taking a “head in the sand” approach, ignoring the upcoming anniversary and essentially glossing-over the entire celebration by refusing to acknowledge the passing of days on the calendar, I may be able to cheat the clock. Remember the saying, “You can’t fool Mother Nature”?  Well, maybe I can outsmart Father Time?

by Toni DeBella

 “New Year’s Day…now is the accepted time to make your regular annual good resolutions. Next week you can begin paving hell with them as usual.” – Mark Twain

As far back as the Babylonians, human beings have been making resolutions for the new year.  The ancient Romans offered promises to the god Janus, for whom the month of January is named.  We are one week into 2012 and already 88% of us have broken our new year’s resolutions.  Statistically only 46% of us will keep our vows past the six month mark.  Honestly, I’ll be lucky if my annual reforms survive until mid-February. I’ve decided that the problem doesn’t necessarily lie with the failure of the “resolution-maker” as much as it rests on the aspirations themselves; no one really wants to keep a promise designed to squish the fun out of life.  It’s important to note that not all resolutions are created equal and therefore, it’s no wonder that travel is in the top five of the most popular items on everyone’s “bucket list” this year.

My Checklist to Paradise

Alright, so I am not the most adventurous traveler that ever lived.  It’s true that my recent explorations have been confined to movements within the borders of a country shaped like footwear.  I agree that it would be good for me to venture outside of my comfort zone – breaking free from the Umbrian ties that bind me.  To this end, on the top of my “2012 Travel List”  is “Make a pilgrimage to Sicily”.

Considering all the time I’ve spent in Italy these last 8 years, it’s shameful that I’ve never set foot on the island home of my ancestors or, for that matter, in the town of my grandfather’s birth.  Situated approximately 75 kilometers from Palermo is the city of Corleone, Italy.  Yes, that Corleone.  You can see why I’ve been putting it off – it’s an intimidating proposition.  Armed (no pun intended) with my documentation, photos of my Nonni and a list of Sicilian phraseology extracted from episodes of Commissario Montalbano, I plan to set out for the motherland and see who and what I discover.  I mean, what’s the worst that can happen…? Boh.

“Life is what happens to you while you are busy making other plans.” — John Lennon

Before you know it, it will be 2013.  Go ahead and declare you independence from the mundane and take a break from the humdrum.  Pack your suitcase, grab your passport and head to the nearest airport.  Open your aperture for a wider view, cast-off the ball and chain of responsibility and get your Marco Polo on.  Listen to the advice of the winged goddess of Greek mythology Nike when she says to, “Just Do It”…tick tock, tick tock, tick tock…

This week Bootsnall is kicking off a new weekly event called the Indie Travel Challenge, that will last for all of 2012! Much like their 30 Days of Indie Travel project, Bootsnall invites bloggers from all over the world to participate.  This week’s prompt: Resolutions.
by Toni DeBella

As I sit here in my apartment on New Year’s Eve with a candlelit dinner, a glass of Moscato d’Asti and the computer on my lap, I am feeling quite optimistic about the future.  An email unexpectedly arrives from the host of my blog giving me statistical updates about my year of blogging in 2011 and it says the following:

“The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 9,200 times in 2011. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 3 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.”

I am embarrassed to admit that my first thought regarding this information was how nice it would have been if the odometer could have rolled over to 10,000 views by midnight.  Fortunately I caught myself in my moment of greed and selfishness – reminded of the fact that 9,200 people actually visited my sight, either on purpose or by accident, representing 9,199 more people than I could have ever hoped or imagined would.  Some of you just stopped by one time while others are now regular email subscribers, traveling along with me on my journey.  However you came to Orvieto or Bust, I am really very happy and grateful that you were here.  It is about quality not quantity.

“The object of a new year is not that we should have a new year. It is that we should have a new soul” – G. K. Chesterton

My friends Suzee and "Yogi" on our New Year's Day Hike

On New Year’s Day in particular we are in “reflection-mode” – making promises that we may or may not keep and looking backward and forward at the same time.  2011 was a year of monumental global change.  If the Arab Spring and the Occupy Movement have taught us anything it is that human beings collectively are capable of creating miracles.  Maybe this phenomenon works the same way in our daily lives – all of our accomplishments and victories are not achieved in a vacuum – others were there to help us along, either directly or in the spirit of solidarity.  If I believe this to be true, and I do, then I can no longer hold onto the empty fear that there is a possibility I will grow old alone.  If we are all residents of Planet Earth then we are in it together and for the long haul.  It is all in how you look at it and I prefer to look at it just this way.  Peace, love and serenity in 2012!

by Toni DeBella

Watch YouTube Video Below!

Yes, I know you’ve seen this post before….but it’s Umbria Jazz Winter #20, so I’m updating the line-up and reminding everyone that there’s a 6-day party going on in Orvieto!

Like scrappy, bebopping Pied Pipers, Perugia’s popular street band Funk Off gets this party started with a nightly parade that snakes through Orvieto’s narrow and ancient cobblestone alleyways. Music lovers, young and old, scamper and skip behind these energetic hipsters as their infectious beat draws more and more followers along the route. The bluesy procession ends with an impromptu jam session in the Piazza della Repubblica, where you’ll find you can’t help but tap your feet, move your body and smile: It’s Umbria Jazz Winter #20 and “baby, it’s cold outside”.

IMG_1412The international flavor and welcoming spirit amidst the holiday lights and chilly, frigid temperatures creates a unique atmosphere that makes this festival something special. For five nights, starting from December 28 to January 1, Jazz fans flock from all over Italy and beyond to partake in the music and brotherhood for which this festival has become world renowned.  Performing on stage this year: Gregory Porter Septet, Dee Alexander & Evolution Ensemble, Tomeka Reid, Nicole Mitchell, Gary Brown & Feelings, Giovanni  Tommaso Reunion Quintet, John Batiste, and many more.

IMG_15182012 goes out with a bang! Capodanno is celebrated in the Piazza del Popolo at midnight, ringing in the New Year with a fireworks display and free outdoor concert.  On New Year’s Day arrive at the famous Duomo early to secure your spot for the first Mass of 2013.  Inside this majestic Cathedral you’ll witness something you don’t see every day; hymns sung at a Roman Catholic “Mass for Peace and Gospel” by Dr. Bobby Jones and the Nashville Gospel Superchoir.  Hold onto your seats because this joint will be jumpin’!

For more information about the festival go to: http://www.umbriajazz.com/Home.aspx

SEE YOUTUBE VIDEO OF FUNK OFF HERE:

by Toni DeBella

From Me to You…

Andrew & me at my Mom's for Christmas Eve

Life is so full of surprises.   One evening in April, on a whim, I created “Orvieto or Bust”.  At the time I didn’t know that by publishing my first post I would officially become  a “blogger” – I was only looking for a place to chronicle my experiences in a little Umbrian hill town in Italy.  The unintended result has been the discovery of a latent love for writing that has fulfilled me in ways I never could have predicted and nearly eight months later,  can’t imagine living without.  With the assistance of the weird and wonderful internet, I am able to send my ramblings into cyberspace where I have had the opportunity to connect with some amazing people from all over the world.   It is to you, the people who have supported and encouraged me, that I send my love, affection and sincere gratitude and wish you and your families all the best in 2012.  Hugs and kisses.  Toni

by Toni DeBella

…Where the joyful sonatas of “Auguri” replace “Buongiorno” just for the season…and the sparkling, twinkling, snowy-white lights bring elegance to streets and alleyways.  Christmas markets and ice rinks erupt everywhere…Presepio and Ceppo reflect the perennial traditions of the old and yawning, sleepy children at Midnight Mass remind us of the new.  Holiday salutations begin with Prosecco and end the night with Grappaand it is never, ever too cold for gelato!  Panettone and Amaretti dunked into your cappuccino means it’s Christmas morning and…Babbo Natale “is coming to town” but in eleven days, La Befana is bringing the “stash”!

Buone Feste (Happy Holidays) to you and yours!

Peace in the New Year.

by Toni DeBella

Luke Joseph DeBella: 1917 – 2004

As the 10-year anniversary of my father’s passing comes and goes, I have been thinking a lot about him and of the legacy he left behind.  To say that he was my role model and hero seems trite — everyone says that about their father (if they are fortunate enough to have a strong man in their life to lead them into adulthood as I did).  A man of few words, I learned what was most important by watching him conduct himself throughout his life and in his 52-year love affair with my mother.  It was in this manner that I witnessed the qualities I wanted to emulate for myself.  If I could only become half the person that he was…

When my dad was a young man his nieces and nephews used to call him “Uncle Tootsy”.  If you’d ever met this man you’d understand how ludicrous a moniker that was because my father’s reputation as a curmudgeon was legendary.  He could come-off a little scary at first and often caused my friends at school to shiver in their boots.  However, despite his well-executed “tough-guy” persona, once you got to know him you’d soon realized that his “schtick” was designed to hide one of the biggest and warmest hearts on the planet.  Babies in particular adored my father – they were not fooled by his stern, gruff manner – they could see right through him into his soft, mushy center.  My father had more friends than you could shake a stick at.

Dad was born at home in San Jose, California and raised in a house with 9 other siblings by Sicilian immigrant parents.  Not formally educated past the 8th grade, he would religiously read the newspaper cover-to-cover every day and watch the news each evening.  What my father lacked in academic knowledge he more than made up for in an uncanny intelligence for reading people.

At a young age my father learned his trade as a car mechanic and after returning from Europe at the end of World War II, he began an automotive repair business, “Luke and Martin Service”, in an old converted barn behind my grandparents’ house.  When I was a little girl, I never hesitated to take the opportunity to boast about him. If a kid bragged that his father was a brain surgeon, I would shoot back, “Well, MY dad is a mechanic”! He worked in that capacity until he was nearly 75 years old because, I believe, his regular customers refused to let him retire.  A good, honest and trustworthy auto repairman is really hard to come by.

He wasn’t the kind of guy to show off or talk about himself.  He avoided people who put on “airs” or thought they were superior to others.  He valued honor and respected hard work and straight talk.  When I was a teen, he once said to me, “Being rich doesn’t make you happy”.  My response back was, “That’s just what poor people say to make themselves feel better”, and he just smiled.  He was crazy about Westerns (especially John Wayne and Clint Eastwood), and was an avid outdoor sportsman.  By far, his favorite activity was to fish in a boat on a lake with his buddies.  He was so passionate about it that my family had the words “Gone Fishing” carved into his gravestone.  The cheekiness of that gesture would not be lost on him.

I guess the bottom line is that my dad was the “strong, silent type”.  Not very demonstrative – he wasn’t much for talking about his “feelings”.  In all honesty, I don’t remember my father ever saying the words “I love you” to me, however, there wasn’t a day that went by that I didn’t feel loved and cared for by him.  Some people ‘talk the talk’ but he actually ‘walked the walk’ and taught me one of the most important lessons of my life so far: “Love” isn’t a noun, it’s a verb. by Toni DeBella

Another visit comes to an end. When I lament to friends about how much I will miss Orvieto, invariably one of them will say to me, “Oh, don’t worry. It will be exactly the same when you return. In Orvieto, nothing ever really changes.” In my absence, I cling tight to the comfort of this statement and hope that what they say is true: In Orvieto, time is suspended.

 

 

 

As if deposited by a time machine from the past, Medieval Orvieto is a contradiction of ancient and modern, a paradox of now and then; a throwback to a simpler era. Centered near the birthplace of the Cittaslow movement (whose logo, coincidentally, is a snail), life inside these tufo walls moves at an easy pace – causing one’s blood pressure to plummet and heart rate to slow.

Orvietani march to a dreamy drummer and are not particularly in a hurry to get where they’re going. In this village, lunchtime lasts 3 hours and includes a nap, and buying a stamp can take almost as long as the letter’s journey to its destination. One’s social life is not planned too far in advance, but typically made up of chance encounters and spontaneous invitations.

Its unique cocktail of sophistication and culture is unusual for a town of its size and population, however, before you decide if Orvieto is the right place for you, ask yourself this important question: “Do I crave the excitement of metropolitan life?” If the answer is yes, buy yourself a one-way train ticket to Rome, because “hustle and bustle” definitely don’t live around here.

by Toni DeBella

La Barcaccia, Piazza di Spagna

Rome in late summer can have days so stiflingly and oppressively hot you can think of nothing else but the record high temperatures. Everywhere people are in a fever-induced trance, like melting zombies repeating the same phrases to whomever is within earshot: “Fa caldo!” “E’ caldo come un forno!”. With dead eyes we respond only with a weak, “Si, si”.

I find a small piece of shade near a piazza and sit down on the curb to rest for a minute. The undulating refraction of air rising from the burning pavement creates a mirage. When I stare at one spot long enough, I think I see a figure of the devil forming above a manhole. Hallucination is the first symptom of heat stroke. The soles of my shoes are melting, the mosquitoes that have been gnawing at my ankles have left large red welts on my skin and I’m so dehydrated that my mouth feels filled with cotton balls. Then, not too far in the distance I see it…a drinking fountain! If I weren’t so faint from the heat and humidity I would run toward it like a nomad to an oasis in the Sahara.

Archaeologists believe that the technology for moving water into and around a city originally came from the east, however Romans are unquestionably credited with perfecting the process (i.e., the invention of the aqueduct). This brilliant engineering feat goes unmatched in the ancient world and earned Rome the distinction of having the most available, purest, best-tasting water on the planet. You’ll find Nasone (big nose) fountains scattered throughout the Eternal City – there are about 280 inside its walls alone. On a scorching hot day like this one, all you need to do is simply bend over, stick out your tongue and take a long, cool drink from its glassy stream. L’Acqua di Roma: Liquid of the Gods!

by Toni DeBella

Passion: Day 17 of the 30 Days of Indie Travel Project

During this entire month of November Bootsnall is inviting bloggers from around the world to participate in 30 Days of Indie Travel : a daily blogging effort to look back on our past travel experiences.  Yes, I know I am posting out of order.  Yesterday the topic was passion: what’s yours?

Benjamin Franklin once wrote, “If passion drives you, let reason hold the reins.” Ben and I agree on this point.  My son Andrew often tells me that I have a propensity to perceive things from a romanticized point of view. Conversely, my friend Suzee insists I have a rational, logical approach to life.  So which is it?

I am keenly aware that gone unchecked, my passion for a life in Italy could consume me and morph into a full-blown addiction.   It’s not that I want to discount my emotions in place of reason, but I believe – like the thin line between love and hate – there is a fine balance that must be struck.

We dreamers don’t like to admit that passion can be a double-edged sword – both blessing and curse.  In order to fulfill a dream, something has to give.  “On life’s vast ocean diversely we sail. Reasons the card, but passion the gale.”- Alexander Pope

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Renovating Italy’s “An Italian Passion – it’s in the blood”

by Toni DeBella