Posted in Orvieto, Orvieto Italy, Travel to Italy | Tagged friendship, lighting candles in church, Orvieto, orvieto italy | 14 Comments »
Just a few kilometers outside the center of Orvieto there’s an area known as Localita’ Ponte del Sole. Drive slowly on the winding road and be careful not to blink or you might miss it: A small hand painted sign with the words “Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella” nailed to a tree. The arrow points you down a white road that leads to a clearing…you’ve arrived at Zia Graziella’s place.
At first it might seem a bit unorthodox to find a pizzeria operating out of a private farmhouse in the middle of nowhere. However, when you consider that Italy is a country where food is one of its greatest sources of pride and cuisine part of its national identity, a speakeasy-style establishment thriving on a word-of-mouth reputation makes perfect sense.
Chef Zia Graziella has been creating pasta dough for over thirty-five years – first as the proprietor of a fresh, homemade pasta shop in the historical center and now as a highly regarded, wood-fired pizza cook. What makes her famous dough so extraordinary is that each batch is produced from an eighty-year old “mother” starter that she rolls out to a paper-thin consistency. Her recipe uses no oil and toppings are made with only the freshest ingredients picked from her garden or gathered from local area farms.
The price for a pizza dinner is fixed but the menu is fluid and dictated by the growing season. The meal includes antipasti, three or four different kinds of pizzas, dessert, wine, and coffee. Tonight, for example, we dined on Pizza Margherita (fresh tomato and mozzarella), Pizza with Fennel, Potato and Spicy Salami, and finally, Eggplant, Mozzarella and Tomato pizza.
The pizza flows like the nearby Tiber and can be stopped by leaving at least one slice on the platter – a signal to the kitchen that you’ve finished with the main course and are ready for dessert: a Pizza Nutella. I think it was somewhere between the coffee service and the pouring of Limoncello that I slipped into a Graziella-induced coma.
Honestly, I’d love to tell you that this amazing, one-of-a-kind restaurant is the best-kept secret in Umbria, but I’d be lying. Everyone knows the charming and talented Graziella: Martin Scorsese claims her gnocchi is the best he’s ever eaten and Richard Gere has her on speed dial. Not a VIP? Don’t worry – when you eat at Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella, you’re more than just a celebrity, you’re family.
Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella, Localita’ Ponte Del Sole, 38, Orvieto, Italy 05018, +39 389 792 5102
by Toni DeBella
Posted in Orvieto, Orvieto Italy, Travel to Italy | Tagged Martin Scorses, orvieto italy, Pizza in Orvieto, Pizza in Umbria, Richard Gere, Risto-Pizzeria da Zia Graziella | 25 Comments »
Shortly after arriving in Italy, I accepted an invitation to a book signing and reading event in Rome. When I learned of the book’s subject matter (a thirty-something woman who finds love with an Italian and moves to Rome) I thought, Oh no, not another fairy tale about coming to Italy, having an affair with Marcello Mastroianni and living happily ever after! Needless to say I was skeptical. Seriously, is there anyone out there who could bring freshness to this tired and overly saturated genre of storybook fantasies alla Three Coins in a Fountain, Under the Tuscan Sun and Eat, Pray, Love? I know I sound jaded, but my expectations are low.
After a brief introduction author Estelle Jobson sat down on a cushion in the courtyard of The Beehive Hotel, opened her book, Finding Rome on the Map of Love, and began to read. As I listened to her recount the stories, I noticed the corners of my mouth began to spontaneously turn upward. Her elegant and proper South African accent was in sharp contrast to the wry, sardonic and sassy repartee. Hey, this girl gets it! When she finished I was a bit sad, but fortunately I’d purchased my very own autographed copy of the book and immediately cracked it open on the train back to Orvieto.
During the first couple of chapters, I was gulping down Estelle’s pages the way a typical American might eat their dinner: swallowing without taking time to taste. Perhaps I’ve been in Italy long enough that a voice inside my head warned, “Don’t be in a hurry. Savor each flavor and texture.” This book was just like a good Italian meal; I never wanted the literary feast to end. And when it did end, I felt warm and utterly satisfied.
Estelle Jobson is a talented writer who has a true gift for observation. She describes things that, as an expatriate, I’d experienced but was never able to fully articulate. What appreciate most about Estelle’s storytelling is the way she doesn’t laugh at Italians, she laughs with them. Her book is filled with intelligent humor, compassion, and edgy insight. She’s sarcastic without being mean; clever without being pretentious; and emotional without being overly sentimental. Estelle sees Italians the way they really are and reconfirms, at least for me, why I love living among them.
I’ll stay with the food analogy just a little bit longer. I really enjoyed chewing slowly on every single delicious “bite” of Finding Rome on the Map of Love. Her words were proprio buonissime!
by Toni DeBella
You can contact the author at findingrome@gmail.com
Find her and her book on Facebook
ebook on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Finding-Rome-Map-Love-ebook/dp/B009HBLYYO/
Online extract here: http://italianintrigues.blogspot.ch/2012/10/the-socialization-of-italian-man.html
Posted in Expat in Italy, Italian Culture, Italians, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Orvieto Italy, Rome, writing | Tagged Amazon, Duomo di Orvieto, Eat Pray Love, Ebook, Estelle Jobson, Finding Rome on the Map of Love, Orvieto, orvieto italy, Rome, The Beehive Hotel, Three Coins in a Fountain, Toni DeBella, Under the Tuscan Sun | 17 Comments »
Like scrappy, bebopping Pied Pipers, Perugia’s popular street band Funk Off gets this party started with a nightly parade that snakes through Orvieto’s narrow and ancient cobblestone alleyways. Music lovers, young and old, scamper and skip behind these energetic hipsters as their infectious beat draws more and more followers along the route. The bluesy procession ends with an impromptu jam session in the Piazza della Repubblica, where you’ll find you can’t help but tap your feet, move your body and smile: It’s Umbria Jazz Winter and “baby, it’s cold outside”.
The international flavor and welcoming spirit amidst the holiday lights and chilly, frigid temperatures creates a unique atmosphere that makes this festival something special. For five nights, starting from December 28 to January 1, Jazz fans flock from all over Italy and beyond to partake in the music and brotherhood for which this festival has become world renowned.
The old year goes out with a bang! Capodanno is celebrated with concerts and spontaneous jam sessions all over town. Ring in the New Year with fireworks and lots of reveling in the streets. On New Year’s Day arrive at the famous Duomo early to secure your spot for the first Mass of the year. Inside this majestic Cathedral you’ll witness something you don’t see every day; hymns sung at a Roman Catholic “Mass for Peace and Gospel” by Dr. Bobby Jones and the Nashville Gospel Super Choir. Hold onto your seats because this joint will be jumpin’!
For more information about the festival go to: http://www.umbriajazz.com
SEE YOUTUBE VIDEO OF FUNK OFF HERE:
Posted in Festivals in Italy, Festivals in Umbria, Italy, Orvieto, Travel, Umbria | Tagged arts, Capodanno, Dr. Bobby Jones & The Nashville Gospel Superchoir, Funk Off, Jazz in Orvieto, Orvieto, roman catholic mass, Umbria Jazz, Umbria Jazz Winter | 8 Comments »
I’m happy to report that because the end of the world didn’t come this week, my tour of the Christmas lights in Rome was able to go forward as planned. In fact, my personal “guide” for the evening had a new prophecy for me:
“I predict you are going to come to Rome very, very soon…and be astonished from the lights all over, thinking it was the effect of that good wine you just had.”
Maybe it was the wine, or it might have been those sparkling blue and white jellyfish that floated above my head, or the draping of light bulbs that covered an entire boulevard from end-to-end, or the gigantic trees in every piazza…
Whatever the reason, I was totally astonished and also extremely grateful to be here in Italy for this glittery Roman holiday tradition.
Last night Rome was so bright, I should have worn shades.
by Toni DeBella
Posted in Expat in Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Rome, Travel | Tagged Christmas lights in Rome, holidays, Rome, Rome Italy, The end of the world | 11 Comments »
Some people believe that in life “shit happens” – millions of bumper stickers even say so. These same realists might think that everything unfolds over our lifetime in a series of random occurrences and that wishing and hoping result in a future full of disappointments? My rational side can understand this philosophy but the dreamer in me can’t quite go along with it.
“Follow your bliss and the universe will open doors where there were only walls.” – Joseph Campbell
Did you know that you can talk to the universe and sometimes the universe listens? It’s been listening to me lately. I don’t always believe in things I can’t see or touch, but I sure as hell believe in that…and “what goes around comes around”, and right and wrong, and trusting your gut, and true friendship, and love…
…and “mind over matter”.
Maybe I’m becoming a true believer.
Photograph of the Duomo d’Oriveto by Toni DeBella
by Toni DeBella
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Orvieto, Travel, Umbria | Tagged Duomo of Orvieto, Joseph Campbell, quotes, The Universe, Toni DeBella | 7 Comments »
This is an actual email I received this morning from a friend:
Soooo….how is everything?
Lots of rain here.
My roof is leaking.
Just got in from my second trip to JFK in a week.
I spent a week in Bangkok last month.
Tell me all about your new life.
xo. D
6 December, 2012
Dear D,
We had a flood here four weeks ago. Bad.
I sit in my office a lot in front of my computer.
I drink too many cappuccinos.
I ran into my ex the other day. Awkward.
Haven’t eaten any pasta yet.
Only ate one gelato.
Eva is a great Italian teacher.
Had to substitute her for the Italian news online.
I changed my cellular provider without help.
It took two attempts.
It rained yesterday.
Supermarket is closed on Wednesdays.
I ate cereal for dinner.
The Mayor says I belong in a category called “Orvietini”
I like it.
xo. T
by Toni DeBella
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, Umbria | Tagged Bangkok, expat in Italy, italian news, italian teacher, JFK, living in Italy, Orvietini, Orvieto | 9 Comments »
How often do I get to say this sentence?
“Last night I went to a party in a castle.”
The event was hosted by the amazing talent and Caravaggio lookalike, ceramic artist Marino Moretti. Inside his studio, located in a partially restored 9th-century castle in the town of Viceno, people gathered for a pre-holiday brindisi (toast). I tagged along with my friend, textile conservator and dealer, Igor Honkanen and was pleasantly surprised to see other friends who were in attendance. I was the new girl in town – well not really.
Two guys were hunched over in intense conversation in front of the
fire, and Igor split off to talk to some other people, so I wandered around the hall in awe of all the colorful pottery surrounding us. Marino’s lovely wife Marilyn was such a gracious hostess and the couple’s handsome teenage son acted as the bartender. I was trying to play it cool, but the phrase kept repeating in my head, “I am in a castle, I am in a castle, I am in a castle”.
As for Marino’s works, they are quite particular. His pieces fall mostly in the category of Majolica ceramics, but what I really want to say is that they’re in a class by themselves.
Majolica is a traditional way of tin-glazing pottery that dates back to the 13th century. The technique uses vibrant colors and often depicts historical figues and tells legends through figures and scenes. Moretti’s creations come in earthenware, terracotta and porcelain. Since the 1970s, Marino has gathered quite a large and loyal following.
Tonight the main room was filled with his whimsical
pottery displayed in groupings of vases, bowls and platters. In the corner were spindly garden sculptures. Handpainted tiles of yellow, blue, green and red hung like Renaissance calling cards. Happy medieval figures danced around the outside of bowls and ancient fish swam across platters. Even a crazy man was biting his own tail; it’s serious art that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
I found my way into the potter’s workshop where small cups and vases were perched on simple wooden shelving. I took a deep breath before attempting to pick up a tiny espresso cup with a medieval man’s head on it. I lifted it gingerly, careful not to bump it against the other cups or drop it. It seemed so precious and delicate. I admired it and felt how light it was in my hand. If I owned this cup, I don’t think I could bear to drink coffee out of it! It might be just a little cup and saucer to some people, but to me it’s a fine work of art.
Marino Moretti Studio d’Arte, via del Castello Vecchio, 12-05014 Viceno (TR), 0763 361663 – 320 2651654
For more information go to www.marinomoretti.it or email: info@marinomoretti.it
by Toni DeBella
Posted in Artists in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, Umbria | Tagged arts, Caravaggio, Italian ceramics, Majolica, Marino Moretti, Viceno | 11 Comments »
In Orvieto they do.
They say LOVE is the universal language, but really it’s FOOD. Bridging the gap between languages, cultures, and traditions – food is humanity’s common denominator. “Yum” translates in every language.
Last evening, a large contingency of rowdy Americans, along with a strong delegation from the Eurozone: Italy (of course), Germany, England, Scotland and Finland, gathered to share a meal, wine and friendship.
It’s my understanding that in preparation for this turkey dinner, Carlo, the owner of Ristorante Dell’Ancora, was bombarded with weeks of strict and precise instructions on how to properly prepare a traditional “Norman Rockwell-style” Thanksgiving meal. The anxious, but well-meaning party organizer’s fears were finally quelled by Carlo’s confident annunciation, “Don’t worry, I will make a Thanksgiving dinner better than they do in the United States!”
To use a typically American expression…Carlo hit this one out of the ballpark!
by Toni DeBella
Posted in Americans Abroad, Food in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, Umbria | Tagged food, Food in Italy, Il Giorno del Ringraziamento, Italians celebrate Thanksgiving, I\, Thanksgiving in Italy, traditional Thanksgiving dinner | Leave a Comment »
The Etruscan Chef by Lorenzo Polegri & Kim Brookmire is not just another book about food or cooking, although it tells of both.
It’s a window into the past and present lives of Umbrians and their cuisine – a memoir of food and its genesis from their ancestors, the Etruscans. Lorenzo writes, “We used to be Etruscans. I don’t know if we still are, but we love to think so.”
Chef Polegri presents us with a book that is written by a boy who is now a man. After reading it from cover to cover, I feel as though I know him, and the people he introduced me to, just a little bit better. The smiling faces of the vendors I see at the outdoor market every week now have names. Absorbing Lorenzo’s words, I will try to remember that a farmer toiled in a nearby field to bring these delicious and real foods to my table. Grandparents, parents, children and friends: Through Lorenzo’s stories from his childhood, his teenage years, and now his adulthood, I see more clearly the strong and beautiful people of my adopted home, and for this I am grateful.
The Etruscan Chef is a pleasurable and emotional glimpse into the soul of a life in Umbria, Italy.
To learn more about Chef Polegri and his work go to www.ristorantezeppelin.it or find him on Facebook
by Toni DeBella
Posted in Americans Abroad, Expat in Italy, Food in Italy, Italy, Living in Italy, Orvieto, Travel, Umbria | Tagged Food in Italy, Italian food, Lorenzo Polegri, Orvieto, The Etruscan Chef, Umbria, Umbrian Cuisine | 4 Comments »
































