I can’t believe it’s been 31 days already! Time flies when you’re having fun! What a wonderful experience it’s been to sit down everyday and write about the people, places and things that make this city so special and unique. I want to take this opportunity to thank everyone who inspired, participated or supported me in sharing a little bit of Orvieto with the world, day-by-day. In 2013, I wrote an article for BrowsingItaly entitled, “Insiders Guide to Orvieto”, and I thought it might be a good way to wrap things up. Remember, August may be over, but you know me….I’ll never, ever stop shouting it from the terracotta rooftops…Orvieto, Italy Rocks! Like! Share! Visit!
Friends Massimo Aloisio and Tiziana O. Aloisio are the dynamic duo behind OROGAMI, an exquiste jewellery store located on Via del Duomo. What makes their work especially unique (as well as beautiful) is the fact that, along with great craftsmanship and technique, their designs contain elements of both art and architecture. Pieces are not only made of gold, silver, colorful and precious stones – each collection contains high symbolism and deep meaning: The Seed is the symbol of life; The Labryinth expresses life’s journey; Attica draws inspiration from ancient archaeological finds. Their most astounding work is found in a gold medallion reproducing the intricate details of the rose window of the Duomo di Orvieto. Although many mistake their shop’s name for the art of Japanese papermaking, it’s actually a blend of the Italian word for gold (oro) with the ancient Greek word for wedding (gamos). The two together form “Orogami” which means “union of gold”. Massimo and Tiziana are truly the ‘golden couple’, demonstrated in both their work and their personal life! I’m as ‘good as gold’ to be able to call them ‘amici’. http://orogami.itLike! Share! Visit!
ASCANIO VITOZZI (1539–1615) was an Italian soldier, architect and military engineer (and the son of Ercole lord of Montevitozzo). He was instrumental in the design and building of Palazzo Reale in Torino, where he lived until his death…Also, my vicolo is named for him! BONAVENTURA CERRETTI (1872- 1933) was made Cardinal-Priest of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere in Rome by Pope Pius XI, where he is buried. In 1930, he was painted by his friend, Swiss-born American artist Adolfo Müller-Ury (1862-1947), the portrait is believed to hang in the Palazzo Municipale di Orvieto. LUIGI BARZINI, JR., the journalist/writer/politician most famous for his 1964 book “The Italians” was NOT born in Orvieto, but his fascist-sympathizer-journalist father, Luigi Barzini Sr. (1908-1984) was. The last, is an “Orvietana” by adoption only. Like! Share! Visit!
Coffee bars in Italy are its life’s blood. For over 100 years, Bar Montanucci has been pouring caffeine-addicted Orvietani their morning cappuccinos (in my case, caffe latte) as well as offering fresh, handmade pastries, cakes and…..wait for it…chocolate! At lunch choose from fresh salads, sandwhiches and pasta. After lunchtime, the case transforms into a gelato counter, and in the evenings you can order cocktails with small plates. The terraced patio is a great place to hang-out on warm, summer days and nights, too. Like! Share! Visit!
Day #27 of “31 Days of Orvieto features another remarkable ARTISAN, Loretta Lovisa. Loretta painstakingly and lovingly creates (by hand, of course) ‘Merletto di Orvieto‘ (Lace of Orvieto). In producing this traditional and highly intricate artistic craft, Loretta uses micro-thin threads to weave delicate trimmings, centerpieces, clothing, etc. into works of art. What makes this lace particularly typical to Orvieto is both the technique and motifs: Images of leaves of ivy, vines, flowers, figures and animals found on the 14th century bas-reliefs of the Cathedral of Orvieto are integrated into these artistic expressions. In Loretta’s dedication to this artform, she offers workshops in order to pass along the time-honored techniques to the next generation of Orvietani. She hopes, and so do we, that Merletto di Oriveto will not die, but live on and on. Like! Share! Visit!
The typical cuisine of Orvieto tends to lean heavily on ‘meat’: Cinghiale (wild boar) and its cousin, maiale (pork), as well as dishes made of pigeon or dove (yes, I said pigeon). These ancient recipes also make room for our vegetarian friends. Umbrichelli is Orvieto’s pasta, often served with porcini mushrooms or ‘tartufo’ (black truffles). My favorite dish, Guanciale/Baffo (pork cheek) in a sage-tomato sauce, can be found at Trattoria del Moro Aronne where owner Cristian Manca provides great service and doubles as the entertainment. You’ll always ‘mangia bene’ in Orvieto! Like! Share! Visit!
Some might say that Orvieto is a sleepy little town with not much going on…but there’s one group of citizens that would beg to differ. Compagnia Mastro Titta, under the direction of Paola Cecconi, is a community theatre group comprised of 54 ‘kids’ (ages 10 to 83) that presents musicals and comedies that are anything but ‘amateur’. Recent sold-out productions include: Sister Act 2, Mamma Mia, Grease, Flashdance and Hello Dolly. Check the calendar at Teatro Mancinelli (see Day #5) for upcoming shows! Bravi, Bravi! Like!Share!Visit!
What can you do when temperatures top 38C (100F)? Eat gelato of course! But don’t settle for just any old ice cream…head to the world-renowned Gelateria Pasqualetti (http://www.ilgelatodipasqualetti.com). This family-owned and operated artisan gelateria makes the real thing: Whole, natural and delicious gelato with the colors and the scents of real fruit – without gimmicks, chemicals or thickeners. You’ll find them at 1 of 2 locations: 10 Via del Duomo and a summer-only shop at 14 Piazza del Duomo. Go out and ‘lick’ the heat….FYI: Gelato is great in the dead of winter, too!
Lamberto Bernardini’s 15th-century papermaking studio is where you can see carta marmorizzata (marbled paper) being made by hand. “Floating paper” has been traced back to Japan 835 C.E., but it really developed as a true art form in Persia and Ottoman Turkey, eventually finding its way to Europe, where it remains an important decorative craft today. Back in 2012 Steven Brenner of Cross-Pollinate & The-Beehive and I made a film about Lamberto in his Orvieto workshop, where you can also take a small group or private class to learn how to make marbled paper yourself! Check it out and then…Like! Share! Visit!
Orvieto or Bust: 